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The European Federation of Jewellery (EFJ) was founded in 2013 and is made up by recognised national associations from Belgium, France, Spain, Italy , Portugal and Romania, which together represent 89% of all jewellery items manufactured in Europe.
The Federation covers jewellery, silverware, goldsmith, watchmaking as well as diamonds, gemstones and pearls. 

The EFJ defends the interests of the EU jewellery sector and promotes the achievement of excellence through high-level education, innovation and exchange of best practices.
10 years of the European jewellery sector's interests well in hand with our consultancy AliĂ©nor!
 
Bernadette Pinet-Cuoq, President of the European Federation of Jewellery (EFJ), gives a few words for the occasion of the celebration of the tenth-year anniversary of the European Federation of Jewellery (EFJ):

“Born out of a desire to strengthen the presence of the jewellery sector within the European institutions, the Federation is celebrating its tenth anniversary this year.
Through its effective actions and its concerted approach to promoting the European jewellery industry, the EFJ has become a point of reference for European decision-makers. The Federation has taken on many different and important issues for the sector, such as due diligence, diamond terminology, harmonisation of cash payment ceilings, and ensuring the free movement of precious metal articles. The Federation has participated in numerous meetings with relevant decision makers from the European institutions, always attentive to the concerns of the industry.

The commitment of our members, the cooperation with the Natural Diamond Council, and the constructive work carried out with our consultancy AliĂ©nor have also been key to our success.
All of this work fully contributes to protecting consumers, maintaining a fair level of competitiveness between the sector’s players, and to promoting responsible practices in order to ensure ethical and sustainable supply chains. I am therefore proud of the actions accomplished and the positive results achieved thanks to our members’ involvement and the dynamism of the sector we represent.”
 
Bernadette Pinet-Cuoq, President of the European Federation of Jewellery.
 
Read our full article
Fruitful Board Meeting of the European Federation of Jewellery in Brussels
 
On the 5th of December, the members of the European Federation of Jewellery (EFJ) gathered for their annual Board Meeting in the heart of the European quarter in Brussels.
 
The President Bernadette Pinet-Cuoq expressed her satisfaction with the progress made by the Federation since its creation in 2013, which has allowed the voice of the profession to be heard by the European institutions. "We are committed to many actions and have achieved many successes. We hope to convince new members to join us in this great adventure.”
 
Regarding EU political agenda, the EFJ members welcomed the political agreement reached regarding the legislative proposal on “Empowering consumers for the green transition through better protection against unfair practices and better information”. Together with the legislative proposal on “Green claims”, they will be instrumental in decreasing misleading commercial practices on synthetic diamonds providing consumers with an informed choice.
 
However, the EFJ members reiterated that to truly protect consumers against fraudulent advertising practices, a European legally binding definition of diamond terminology is needed. This is why the Federation has decided to organise a high-level event on this matter during the first semester of 2024.
 
European jewellery operators still face several trade barriers when selling their products in another EU Member State. The Federation has therefore renewed its call for the European Commission to propose a regulation to guarantee the free movement of precious metal articles between Member States. On this occasion, the EFJ members have adopted a position addressing the key topics to be included and harmonised in the future regulation.
 
While the EFJ members also addressed the need to take a step back and reflect on their objectives for the future of the sector in the run-up to the European elections, they remain more mobilised than ever on the eve of a new European Parliament and a new European Commission.
 
Zoom in on the biggest edition of the Romanian Jewelry Week
 
In October, the Romanian Jewelry Week took place in the city of Bucharest, Romania. This 2023 edition was the biggest ever, with over 230 designers and visitors coming from all over the world. Organised by Assamblage, the Romanian National Jewelry Association and a member of the European Federation of Jewellery (EFJ), this international event has been focusing on the contemporary jewellery sector in Romania and worldwide since 2020.

This is the third time that the EFJ, through its President Bernadette Pinet-Cuoq, has participated in this event. This year, she had the honour to reward Marie Jianu with the Award for Excellence in Technique.

Marie Jianu is a designer who studied contemporary jewellery at the Assamblage School of Contemporary Jewellery, and she is an expert in using the “Chassing and Repoussé” technique. Her unique creation that won her the award is a 6.4 x 6.7 cm cuff rustle in pure and sterling silver. Admire Marie Jianu’s talent through this unique piece of pure beauty in the photograph below.

 
Read our full article
The diamond value chain : from the Earth's mantle to your jewel
#6: Trading and pricing of polished diamonds

 
In our series on the diamond value chain, from the diamond formation to the ring on your finger, we review the different steps in the complex supply chain of diamonds. In this newsletter, we are going to cover the sixth step: the trading and pricing of polished diamonds.

After rough diamonds have been cut and polished in manufacturing facilities around the world, many of them return to Antwerp to be traded and sold to jewellery manufacturers. With more than 50% of the world’s polished stones passing through Antwerp, the city remains a leading global polished diamond trading centre.

As it is the case with many commodities and products, the main driver impacting the pricing of polished diamond has been consumer demand. As the world's wealth increased, global demand and prices for polished diamonds have steadily risen over the past 35 years.

There is also a link between the increase in the diamond quality and its pricing evolution. Indeed, the better quality, the higher the prices. But what defines the quality of a diamond?

 
The influence of the 4Cs
When a rough diamond is mined and afterwards polished into a gemstone, it becomes unique. But four characteristics: Cut, Colour, Clarity, and Carat, known as the “4C’s”, determine a diamonds’ quality and value. They are used by independent gemmological laboratories to grade diamonds.
 
The Cut
The cut of a natural diamond can completely transform a diamond and unleash its natural brilliance. To reach its perfect beauty, a natural diamond requires a cut that combines creativity with precision, based on the diamond’s proportions, polish, and final symmetry. An excellent quality cut can be seen in the diamond’s ability to reflect, refract and disperse light.
 
The Carat
The Carat refers to the measurement of the weight of a natural diamond. Each carat weighs 200 milligrams, about the same as a quarter of a raisin. Depending on the diamond’s shape and cut, two one-carat diamonds can be two different sizes.
 
The Clarity
The formation of rough diamonds deep in the earth can make them develop unique markings called inclusions. These markings tell the story of the natural diamond’s formation. The fewer inclusions a diamond has, the more valuable it is. The absence of markings on a diamond is very rare.
 
The Colour
To determine the colour of a natural diamond, laboratories assess how white or colourless the diamond is. The closer the stone of the diamond is to colourless, the rarer and more valuable it is. To the average consumer, natural diamonds can appear colourless while being slightly yellow or brown toned. Their colours depend on the conditions of the earth when they were formed. Some diamonds can also be found naturally coloured (such as pink or blue) and are therefore rare and highly expensive.
 
The next step, in our newsletter, will be dedicated to diamond jewellery manufacturing and retail
 
EFJ Members

UFBJOP - Union Française de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie, des Pierres et des Perles (France)
www.union-bjop.com
 
ARS NOBILIS – Fédération Belge du Bijou et de la Montre (Belgium)
http://www.arsnobilis.be  
 
AORP - Associaçao de Ourivesaria e Relojoaria de Portugal (Portugal)
http://www.aorp.pt/
  
FEDERORAFI - Federazione Nazionale Orafi Argentieri Gioiellieri Fabbricanti (Italy)
https://www.federorafi.it   
 

AWDC - Antwerp World Diamond Centre (Belgium)
https://www.awdc.be
 

AEJPR - AsociaciĂłn Española de Joyeros, Plateros y Relojeros (Spain)
https://www.xn--asociacionespaoladejoyeros-urc.es


Assamblage- Asociatia Nationala a Autorilor si Designerilor de Bijuterie Contemporana 
https://www.assamblage.org/welcome

 
                                           
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